The Feed is a social enterprise based in Norwich whose purpose is to motivate change to prevent poverty, hunger, and homelessness. They do this by helping people return to employment after many years out of the workplace for reasons which can include health problems, addiction, and homelessness. In this edition of Docky, hosted by BuxtonThreeTwo and Proudly Norfolk Food and Drink, we will be speaking to Chris Elliott of The Feed. We’ll hear more on existing initiatives such as; – Their cafe and catering business – The one-to-one and group support sessions – Community Fridge launched in 2020 – How they’re adapting again in 2021 And what opportunities there are for you to be involved in helping The Feed on their journey including making their dream of having a Food Truck a reality. Join us to find out more about how together, we can tackle poverty, hunger, and homelessness.
We’re the leading process industry solution provider offering high quality instrumentation alongside exceptional customer service.
The business was created in 1998 out of a desire to offer effective application solutions for industry, an ethos that’s still at the heart of what we deliver to our customers every day.
With our extensive range of products and expertise, Process Instruments strives to provide the best application solutions that you require whilst also ensuring you are supported by our knowledge, understanding and proficiency.
Our experienced sales and customer care team make sure that all product sales are supported, be that through our own network of services and support engineers or from the original manufacturer.
Process Instruments not only supply your instrumentation but we will also expertly install, commission, calibrate and service the products whether initially sourced through us or already installed in your plant.
We’re proud to have access to a substantial number of stocks of instrumentation either held by us or by our manufacturing partners resulting in secure next day deliveries or fast track engineered solutions.
We have ISO 9001, Safe Contractor approval and Inst MC membership alongside all the correct insurances, risk assessments and method statements required for safe working conditions.
We represent key international and domestic suppliers such as Labom, Thermo Electra, Fox Thermal and Precision Digital, amongst other top rated suppliers. We are a fully qualified Technical Partner of Siemens Process Instrumentation division.
There are few feelings that beat cooking a BBQ outside on a summer’s day. However, imagine taking this experience up a notch. At MKM we are challenging you to build your own Brick BBQ. In just one day you can create a stylish, practical and cheap BBQ that promises to impress even the most discerning guest at this year’s summer party.
The surface for the BBQ should be flat and stable, to achieve this paving slabs or concrete are most suitable. On this surface place the grill tray on the floor and use it as a guide for the first layer of bricks, you may also want to add a preparation area. For this a paving slab works perfectly, place it on the ground making sure to leave space for support wall in the middle of the slab and the grill. From this create a guide for the preparation area by laying bricks around the perimeter grill and underneath the slab creating an “E” shape.
Step 2:
Next mix your mortar, we recommend four parts sand to one part cement and that you add plasticiser to the water to increase the mortars workability. Make sure to add any mortar tone to the mix before liquids and then finally to use enough water to get a stiff consistency. Remove the brick template and place a layer of mortar onto the ground in its place.
Step 3:
Use a straight piece of wood (or mark a line in the mortar using your level) as a guideline for the back of the wall to ensure you lay your first course in a straight line. Once the first layer is completed check the level and make sure corners to the support walls are at right angles.
Step 4:
Where the back wall connects to a support wall place a brick tie into mortar. This will improve the strength of the structure.
Step 5:
Double check that the grill and slab fit perfectly to the brickwork, then begin to build up extra courses of bricks. Techniques can vary for this stage however we recommend you start at the corners and stagger vertical joints by half a brick. Make sure to use a spirit level to check that your walls are straight, level and vertical.
Step 6:
Depending how high you want your BBQ to end up, at approximately the seventh course turn bricks on the support walls sideways too create a ledge for the charcoal tray. This will need to be done for the middle support wall and one of the side walls. Finish the support walls with a flush edged half brick to create a smart finish. After this add 3 more regular courses then follow the same procedure to create a ledge for the grill to rest upon. Remember the middle support wall will hold the slab and grill so make sure the brick sticks out equally at either side. Fix the slab in place by adding mortar to the top of the appropriate support wall and the turned brick.
Step 7:
Finish off the grill side by placing another layer of half bricks vertically onto a sheet of mortar. This will create a smart and professional finish. Do a final check to make sure everything is level then get your pointing tool and smarten up each joint.
Step 8:
Take a step back and appreciate your work. While you wait for your BBQ to set take a picture and send it into MKM for a chance to feature on our site as one of our DIY Guru’s.
If you’re going to damage a floorboard it is typically going to be the one right in the centre of the room. Don’t worry, we’ve all been there and yes we’ve all spent time trying to find something “suiting” to comfortably sit on top of the now flawed board – or at least strategically placed your little toe on it when guests come to visit!
Help is right at your fingertips as below are 7 simple steps to get your floor back in tip-top condition…
1. Drill a hole in all four corners of the damaged board – paying careful attention to surrounding boards
2. Remove the entire length of the board by cross cutting it; you can do this with a rip saw set to the depth of the flooring installed (refer to sizes from the manufacturer)
3. Make a cut down the edges around 1cm in and remove the centre sections (you should have 4 triangular shapes to remove)
4. Slide & pull out the remaining 4 strips – be careful here to not damage the tongue and groove of the surrounding boards
5. Select a replacement board identical or suiting to the rest of the floor
6. Remove the lip of the groove on the replacement boards header and long edge and then angle the floorboard into place
7. Secure the new board with a D3 adhesive to the surrounding boards locking system, when this is done place a weight over it (not your toe) until the adhesive has set
Voila! You have a beautiful floor.
A professional installer should complete this in 40 minutes but remember to take your time when attempting anything like this yourself. Alternatively you could click back to the damaged floorboard, replace and relay or look into relaying your entire floor.
If relaying the entire floor is the option for you, you’ve come to the right place, let Quick-Step inspire you with their latest ad – watch it here!
aminate flooring has never been easier to install thanks to Quick-Step’s Uniclic Technology.
But, before you start take note of these helpful hints:
1. A beautiful beginning. Try not to get too bogged down with working out the exact measurements of the room and each plank. There will always be unexpected imperfections in the wall and no doubt you will need to make some cuts to the laminate anyway. When you start to install, all will become clear…
2. Deciding on the grain. It’s hard to know which way is right and it will all depend on the room set and the style you’re wanting to achieve. You can install from the window into the room, by starting in the left corner and working your way to the right (diagonally) or across the shortest length of the room in an attempt to add an illusion of space.
3. Practice makes perfect. Always trial the start to see how it works (and looks) – you might prefer diagonal after all.
4. Cutting with precision. When cutting always start at the bottom of the laminate, working with the grain. The cut needs to be crisp!
5. Ready, set, go! Now you’re ready to install…
Watch just how easy it is (and how beautiful it looks)!
Now you’re ready to lay a floor, browse our range of flooring options here.
To ensure that you get the best of our free in-store planning service, here’s a useful checklist of information that your sales consultants will need to plan your ideal kitchen.
The example shown below is an indication of how to draw you’re plan, but you needn’t worry about it being a work of art, just so long as the measurements are accurate!
Points to remember
1) Make sure you are accurate with your measurements.
2) Measure the whole room, including door and window frames (see plan below).
3) Make a note of any height restrictions – like a low or sloping ceiling, the height between the window sill and the floor, for example.
4) Indicate on a sketch the location and measurement of the following where they apply, don’t worry if it’s not to scale, as long as the measurements are accurate: –
a. Mains water stop cock b. Waste pipe / soil stack c. Boiler / radiator d. Electric cooker switch e. Electric sockets and light switches f. Gas supply point g. Serving hatch
Plus any features not mentioned above! It’s better to have too much information!
5) List height, width and depth of any appliances you wish to retain in your kitchen.
We’ve all been there, your home needs some TLC and the job is a little bit too big for you to handle. So you decide to call in the builders. The trouble is there are a lot of them out there and some are not all they’re cracked up to be. The wrong choice can be costly and could mean your house topping the billing on Channel 5’s Cowboy Builders. And then there’s the problem of finding a new, reputable builder to sort out the mess the first one left behind. It can soon turn into one long nightmare.
So how do you go about sorting the wheat from the chaff, the good from the bad, the cowboys from the craftsmen? Recommendations are useful but not always forthcoming, especially if you’re new to an area. So we’ve put together a list of tips to help you navigate the minefield, many from our own customer base who know a thing or two about quality building work.
• Ask people you know. Ask friends, family members, neighbours, work colleagues, in your local pub, anywhere you think someone might be able to give you a recommendation. If someone near where you live has had building work done recently, knock on their door and see if the builder they used was good.
• Always seek more than one quote. By contacting three of four builders you will get a feel for who is and isn’t trustworthy. It allows you to compare the work required and prices, and decide who is offering the best value.
• Ask for references. If a builder doesn’t come to you through personal recommendation ask for references. Any reputable builder should have a long list of satisfied customers who will should be happy to discuss their work. As with quotes, always ring more than one referee – they might have given you the number of a relative or friend.
• Look for quality marks. There are several schemes builders can get involved with to demonstrate the quality of their work and service.
Ones to look out for are the TrustMark, the Trading Standards Institute Consumer Codes Approval Scheme (look for the TSI logo) and the Trading Standards Buy with Confidence Scheme. Also look out for members of trade associations which have codes of practice and schemes to help resolve any problems.
• Check insurances. Having the correct insurances is a sign of reputable contractor. Ask to see the policies and check they don’t run out before the job is likely to end. Required insurances include Public Liability and Employers’ Liability and if they refuse to let you see the policy, it is possibly they don’t have it in place.
• Get a written contract. Once you’ve decided which builder to go with get down in writing what it is they are going to do. This means that if the builder doesn’t do what is agreed, it will help in getting what you paid for or getting some of your money back. Be very wary of a builder refuses to write anything down.
• Expect to deal with some problems. Very few jobs run 100% smoothly no matter how good your builder is, so be prepared to deal with some hiccups along the way. But make sure you have all the builder’s contact details and let him or her know immediately that you are unhappy about something. Then get down in writing how they are going to put it right.
We hope our tips our useful to you but if you need any further information why not drop into your local MKM branch and speak to one of our staff.
Solid walls can often lead to draughty homes and high energy bills for owners, so it’s no wonder more and more people are looking to get them insulated. The typical way of achieving this is by fitting an external wall product behind a render or brick slip facing. Alternatively, if the owner wants to keep the existing building façade, you can fit dry-lining products such as insulated plasterboard.
Whichever route you pick; it’s important to maintain a continuous layer of insulation around the building envelope, which begs the question: Should pipework be run through the insulation?
The simple answer is, wherever possible, no. Every time you cut or penetrate through insulation you run the risk of damaging the performance of the insulation layer and vapour barrier. In an ideal world, any services should be moved to an area where no insulation will be fitted, however, the realities of retrofit applications mean that this simply isn’t always possible.
If you have no choice other than to penetrate through the layer, best practice details are available to guide you. By following these details, you should be able to ensure that the system limits the risk of condensation or additional heat losses as a result of air leakage and thermal bridging.
Obviously there are a number of different pipes which you may need to accommodate, from water pipes to flues, and the requirements may be slightly different for each.
If, for example, you have to run a gas or oil pipe through a solid wall fitted with insulated plasterboard, you should use a pad saw or core drill (a circular disc drill bit) to cut through the insulation to provide a snug fit and reduce the oversize to a bare minimum. Any damage to the insulation board should be made good by filling any large gaps larger than 10 mm with expanding foam insulation. The perimeter of the pipe should also be sealed with a flexible sealant.
For flue pipes, there may be a requirement to create a separation layer between the insulation and the flue pipe. This will vary depending on the operating temperature of the flue and the flue specification itself so be sure to check carefully beforehand.
In all cases, the installation of gas, oil pipes, flues, electrics and telecoms should only be done by a competent person such as a qualified electrician, Gas Safe, OFTEC, HETAS or BT certified engineer. It is also vital that ventilation requirements for certain combustion appliances are not removed, blocked or reduced in size. All works involving appliances, fittings or flues should be carried out in accordance with Approved Document J for England & Wales, or Section 3.17 – 3.24 of the Scottish Technical Standards and / or manufacturer’s guidance.
Getting to know… Kingspan Kooltherm K17 & K18 Insulated Plasterboard
Both Kingspan Kooltherm K17 & K18 Insulated Plasterboard have been designed on a simple principal: why do three jobs when you can do it just as well in one? The products combine insulation, dry-lining and vapour control in a single board, saving you a lot of time and hassle during installations.
As well as making your life a bit easier, the products also deliver when it comes to space-saving. As you know, for every millimetre of insulation installed in an internal wall application is a millimetre of living space lost, so it’s essential to keep constructions as thin as possible whilst also reducing heat loss. Thanks to their premium performance Kooltherm insulation cores, both products can achieve thermal conductivities as low as 0.020 W/m×K, helping to keep build-ups slim and the owner happy.
The products feature a 12.5 mm plasterboard facing which is pre-bonded to the insulation core. Kingspan Kooltherm K17 Insulated Plasterboard has a glass tissue based reverse surface making it suitable for plaster dab or adhesive bonded applications, whilst the composite foil based facing on Kingspan Kooltherm K18 Insulated Plasterboard make it an ideal choice for mechanically fixed applications.
For assistance calculating what type and thickness of insulation you need for an application, simply visit Kingspan Insulation’s free online U-value Calculator. The calculator is also available as a free app for Windows, Apple and Android devices.
As anyone who’s ever been locked out of the bathroom can tell you, it’s never fun battling a broken door handle. As a common issue, it’s always handy to know how to fix this particular problem – so if your toolbox is prepped and you’re raring to go, let’s get stuck in:
1. When a handle breaks, there’s normally one side that’s faultier than the other. However, regardless of which side is worse, it’s always best to take both sides of the handle off in a bid to gain a clearer picture of the fault.
2. Once you’ve removed both sides, you should be able to identify a cross-member (usually rectangular in shape) that fits between the two handles – take this out using some long-nosed pliers
3. As the years go by, this cross-member wears, meaning that it often becomes too short to run between each fitting (hence why only one side of the handle works).
4. To rectify this fault, simply pad out the groove in which this cross-member sits in each handle using some tiny nuts and a tiny drop of glue. By spacing out the fittings, you’ll be shortening the gap in which this rectangular cross-member sits – which should prevent the fault occurring again anytime soon!
Fixing a shelf is a really common job that everyone can do themselves, providing they have the right set of tools hidden somewhere in the house. So if you’re looking at fitting some shelves in your home, here’s a few simple steps to get you started:
1. First and foremost, it’s really important to check for any cables in the wall you wish to fit your shelf to. By using a simple wire detector, you’ll be able to do this no problem – so be sure to have this handy piece of kit in your toolbox before starting!
2. You should also check for pipes and other obstructions behind the wall before you start. Some detectors will have this functionality built in so you can be sure you’re working safely – you don’t want to accidentally drill into a water pipe!
3. Providing you’ve found no wires or pipes, it’s time to crack on! First, find your desired height and mark with a pencil. After you’ve done this, use a piece of wood and a spirit level and mark a fine line where you want the shelf to sit. Make sure the spirit level is sat nicely in the middle – you don’t want a wonky shelf, do you?
4. Line your brackets up with this line and mark each hole using a small screw. At this point, it’s a good idea to double check your measurements, otherwise you might find yourself filling miscellaneous holes in the wall for the rest of the afternoon!
5. Next, drill out the holes where you have marked with a screw before inserting some screw plugs (NOTE – don’t drill the holes too big, your screw plugs should fit neatly into these holes and shouldn’t have any wiggle-room whatsoever!).
6. Line up your brackets and insert a screw in each hole – tighten using a screwdriver (manual or electric, it doesn’t matter as long as they’re tight!)
7. Attach the shelf to the brackets and revel in your awesome handiwork!
As an issue that affects almost every household at one point or another, a tripped fuse can cause a total loss of power to a certain area of the house. Often caused by a faulty appliance, here’s how to fix this simple issue:
1. In the affected room, start by unplugging every appliance or electronic piece of equipment that’s utilising a socket in the wall.
2. Locate your fuse box and switch any fuse that’s been tripped to the ‘OFF’ position back to the ‘ON’ position (you’ll be able to spot which fuse has tripped as it’ll most likely be the only one facing in a different direction to the others).
3. Head back into the room and plug in each appliance one by one.
4. If the lights in the room go off when you plug a certain piece of kit back into the wall, hey presto! You’ve found your broken appliance.
5. Unplug the faulty appliance and repeat step number two to turn the power back on in the room.
6. Take your faulty appliance to your local electronics shop and have it looked at by a trained professional – you don’t want to be tinkering with plugs yourself!
Without a decent photograph or iconic piece of art hanging in our home, our walls run the risk of looking pretty boring. If you’re looking to hang your latest masterpiece but don’t have the skills to do so – fear not, your time is now:
1. Start by marking where you wish to hang your painting with a pencil. A really easy way of determining whether or not you’ve got the right spot is to hold the picture up while a friendly helper stands back and gives their perspective.
2. Pull your painting’s hanging wire to the top of the frame and measure the distance between the edge of the wire and the top of the frame.
3. Using the distance you’ve just measured, mark below the line you made on the wall (again, using a pencil).
4. Again, before you hammer anything you’re going to need to use your trusty detector to make sure there aren’t any wires or pipes in the wall that could potentially cause you grief.
5. Hammer your hook into this second mark on the wall using a small hammer and nail. Hang your picture and flick the kettle on – job done!
